Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas – The 9th Nightcap

albet_cava_reserva_loNightcap #9: Albet i Noya Cava Brut, Penedes, Spain $16

The holidays just wouldn’t be the holidays without bubbles and there are more to choose from than ever before. While prosecco sales in the United States have gone up around 35% in the last 3 years, it is really cava I crave. Cava is the sparkling wine of Spain. It has traditionally been made from 3 indigenous grapes – xarel-lo, parellada and macabeu – but beginning in 1986, chardonnay, and then pinot noir and several other grapes have been authorized for use. Cava is made in the traditional method with a second fermentation in the bottle in which it will eventually be sold, as in Champagne, but is less strict than the French when it comes to aging requirements.

Albet i Noya is one of my favorite cava producers. The reasons why are too numerous to list here, but I will give you the highlights. This family winery was the first in Catalonia to embrace organic farming and winemaking, taking it one stop further in 2004 with biodynamic grape growing on part of the estate.; they disgorge their cava manually and print the disgorgement date on the back of every bottle; and they only use yeast indigenous to the Penedès region. Their cava is even vegan friendly! But mainly I love the way this cava tastes. It is made from the 3 indigenous grapes plus chardonnay, and was aged for 18 months. It is clean and mineralic, with just a splash of citrus, and then a hint of hazelnuts on the long finish. And what lovely bubbles.  ĺSalud!

Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas – The 8th Nightcap

NAOUSSANightcap #8: Boutari Naoussa 2007, Macedonia, Greece $16

Wines from Greece were not taken very seriously until the last 25 years or so during which there has been a concerted effort on the part of Greek winemakers to produce better quality wines (probably fueled by Greece's entrance into the European Union in 1981). And, let's face it, the country's most famous wine, Retsina, made by adding pine resin to wine, did not do much to elevate their standing in the minds of wine drinkers. But Greece is now giving us wines that merit our attention. This beautiful region with its Mediterranean climate is home to hundreds of indigenous grapes and, although almost all of them are near impossible to pronounce, it is definitely worth the effort to learn how to say at least a few of these Greek names.

One of my favorite Greek grapes is xynomavro (pronounced ksee-NOH-mah-vro). A dark-skinned red grape with high levels of both tannin and acids, xynomavro produces robust red wines. Xynomavro hails from Macedonia, and some of the best red wines in Greece are considered to come from Macedonia's subregion, Naoussa. Boutari Naoussa, made from 100% xynomavro, was the first bottled wine available in Greece in 1879 and continues to be one of Greece's treasures. It is rich and smooth with pomegranate and ripe berry flavors, and tomato notes. As with all great treasures, these wines won't be kept secret for long because, even if the names are Greek to wine drinkers, we still recognize a good thing when we taste it.

Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas – The 7th Nightcap

271342Nightcap #7: Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner 2012, Niederösterreich, Austria $16

Many a worthwhile grape has failed to capture the American public’s attention, and love, due to nothing more than a language barrier. Let’s face it, it’s hard to cozy up to a wine whose name you can’t pronounce. Experts have speculated that this is the case with Austria’s signature white grape, grüner veltliner. But this grape has had something of a rebirth in the last few years. For starters, we can now call it Gru-ve, or Groovy, for short, making it immediately more accessible. Add to that the fact that it is a high acid, lip-smacking grape that pairs well with many foods, and we’ve got a winner.

This luscious wine throws off citrus notes, followed up with a delightfully tart bite, and finishing with a touch of white pepper, a flavor commonly associated with Groovy.  It provides a surprisingly weighty mouthfeel. What I especially like about this wine is its ability to stand up to bold-flavored dishes, even those notorious for making bad bed fellows. I have paired this wine with broccoli rabe to the surprise and delight of doubtful diners. In the never-ending search for chardonnay substitutes, this wine is a stand out. Da doo da doo doo, feeling Gru-Ve!

Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas – The 6th Nightcap

image_2001250_fullNightcap #6: Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Merlot 2009, Columbia Valley, Washington $15

I know, I know. We're all supposed to eschew merlot ever since seeing Sideways. Well, I refuse. I happen to love this grape and often find the wines more approachable and easier to pair with food. Merlot, in addition to having many of the flavor characteristics of cabernet sauvignon – black cherry, vanilla, mocha – can have the most soothing and enjoyable velvet-like finish. It's my liquid version of comfort food. I will never say no to a merlot from Bordeaux (where there is actually more merlot planted than cabernet sauvignon), but I have found merlot from Washington state to be excellent, and with an affordable price tag. 

In the tradition of Bordeaux, this wine is a blend – merlot (76%), cabernet sauvignon (22%) and cabernet franc (2%). Butch Milbrandt, originally from Oregon, moved to Washington and launched this winery in 2005. Washington is the second largest producer of vinifera wine (think European) in the United States. It is America's primary site for riesling and, although most of the grapes grown are chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, the merlot and shiraz produced here are the wines that actually meet with the highest critical acclaim. So, go on. Try a merlot for just one night. You can go back to being a pinot snob the other 6 days of the week. 

 

Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas – The 5th Nightcap

Nightcap #5: Onyx Moonshine Secret Stash 2013, Connecticut, USA, price varies

It may not be wine, but we would be remiss not to include a product by this company in our list of worthy nightcaps. Onyx Moonshine is a local success story, and an almost overnight one, at that. The first moonshine to be legally produced and sold in New England, Onyx can now be found on shelves in almost every bar and liquor store in Connecticut. I first discovered this white lightening a year ago at a screening of a documentary about Prohibition in Connecticut where they were pouring drinks made from their moonshine. For an explanation of just what moonshine is and to learn more about their very first product, click here: Connecticut Celebrates the End of Prohibition.

Barrel Aged JPGOnyx prepared for an even bigger celebration of Prohibition Repeal Day this year. On December 5th, Onyx released their newest product, Secret Stash, a charred oak barrel-aged moonshine and Connecticut’s very first whiskey. This firewater is now spreading across Connecticut like wildfire. If you want to catch the craze early on, you will need to hurry. A very limited amount of Secret Stash was produced – 33 barrels to be precise – a tribute to the year that Prohibition was repealed. If you’re lucky enough to get your hands on a bottle, you can expect to pay in the area of $60 for it, although price varies depending on the retailer. As if its scarcity and sexy name weren't enough, each of the 33 barrels produced has different flavor notes due to the unique nature of each barrel used and the conditions under which it was made. A list of the 33 restaurants and stores carrying the Connecticut-crafted hooch, complete with each barrel's flavor profile, can be found here: Find Secret Stash.
If you miss out on the first run, take heart. Onyx plans to release more of their sneaky pete during the summer of 2014. In the meantime, you can grab one of their other home-brewed products as a gift for that special grog guzzler in your life. Visit Onyx Moonshine.

If you snagged a bottle of Secret Stash, you might want to try this cocktail recipe, provided by Onyx Moonshine:

Onyx Maple Manhattan

2 oz Onyx Barrel Aged Whiskey (Secret Stash)
½ oz Maple Syrup
½ oz Sweet Vermouth
Orange rind, for garnish

Combine Secret Stash, maple syrup, and vermouth in a shaker over ice. Twist the orange rind over the mixture to release the orange oil, then rub the orange rind along the rim of the rocks glass. Shake and strain over an ice sphere.

Where to Find Secret Stash

Read our full story on this product here: Nightcap #5

1
M&R Liquors
206 Buckland Road, South Windsor
860.783.5228
smoke, maple, cigar box
2
M&R Liquors
2773 Main Street, Glastonbury
860.633.7040
smoke, peanut brittle, biscuit
3
M&R Liquors
120 Tolland Turnpike, Manchester
860.643.9014
lemon, straw, sandalwood 
4
M&R Liquors
214 W Main Street, Avon
860.678.1997
charcuterie, truffle, oak
5
M&R Liquors
838 Farmington Avenue, Farmington
860.384.9799
smoke, citrus, truffle
6
Manchester Wine & Liquors
1010 Tolland Turnpike, Manchester
860.649.4750
butterscotch, lemon, charcoal
7
Market Grille
110 Buckland Hills Dr, Manchester
860.644.1011
pear, maple, gingerbread
8
Oxford Liquors
451 Hartford Road, Manchester
860.643.7796
hickory, caramel, bacon
9
Sav-Rite Liquors
117 Washington Ave, North Haven
203.239.3779
roasted corn, cedar, smoke
10
The Cork Fine Wines & Spirits
1597 E Main Street, Torrington
860.496.0400
smoke, fruit wood, marzipan
11
Bottle Shop of Unionville
20 S Main Street, Unionville
860.673.2651
fruit wood, mocha, pastry
12
Spendless Discount Liquors
210 Spencer Street, Manchester
860.643.9461
smoke, cappuccino, wicker
13
Worldwide Wine & Spirits
480 Queen Street, Southington
860.276.5801
lemon, fruit wood, chocolate
14
krust Pizza Bar
686 Main Street, Middletown
860.358.9816
hickory, apple, gingerbread
15
Stew Leonard’s Newington
3475 Berlin Turnpike, Newington
860.760.8100
smoke, nuts, honeycomb
16
Crazy Bruce’s Liquors
178 Newington Rd, West Hartford
860.233.2117
peanut brittle, cappucino, smoke
17
CT Beverage Mart
3127 Berlin Turnpike, Newington
860.667.1339
caramel, espresso, maple
18
Worldwide Wine Cellar
33a Fieldstone Commons, Tolland
860.870.5100
coffee, chocolate, baked fruit
19
CT Beverage Mart
615 Hartford Road, New Britain
860.225.1444
straw, lemon, caramel apple
20
Broadway Wine & Spirits
71 Broadway, Colchester
1.888.959.9463
lemon, vanilla, smoke
21
Liquor World
135 West Road, Ellington
860.872.0507
caramel, smoke, roast chestnuts
22
Liquor World
136 Berlin Road, Cromwell
860.635.3876
lemon, apple, honeycomb
23
Putnam Plaza Super Liquors
4 Main Street, East Hartford
860.568.3659
maple, cedar, truffle
24
Town Line Fine Wine, Spirits & Beer
345 Hawley Lane, Stratford
203.916.7670
smoke, butter, baked fruit
25
Willowbrook Spirit Shoppe
2 Willowbrook Road, Cromwell
860.635.1200
hickory, apple, chocolate
26
Crazy Bruce’s Liquors
1224 Farmington Avenue, Bristol
860.582.4523
gingerbread, charcoal, sandalwood
27
Liquor Depot
687 W Main Street, New Britain
860.223.7140
maple, carrot cake, mint
28
Riley’s Liquor Store
320 Hartford Turnpike, Vernon
860.875.1152
gingerbread, smoke, truffle
29
CT Beverage Mart
955 Washington Street, Middletown
860.347.1624
butterscotch, herbal, pepper
30
Amity Wine & Spirit Co.
95 Amity Road, New Haven
203.397.9463
citrus, maple, cherry
31
Wine Cellars 4
68 Farmington Avenue, Farmington
860.677.0130
smoke, lemon, pastry
32
Liquor Super Store
1261 Meriden Road, Wolcott
203.757.9463
toast, grilled fruit, vanilla
33
Maximum Beverage
33 N Main Street, West Hartford
860.761.2541
espresso, lemon, roast chestnut

 

Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas – The 4th Nightcap

51ae46ef765d4Nightcap #4: Grupo Bodegas Olarra Cerro Anon Rioja Crianza Reserva 2006, Rioja, Spain $18

I have a strong fondness for Spanish wines and this is never more evident than when I get my lips on a big, bold Rioja. Rioja is almost single-handedly responsible for putting Spain on the global wine map. As with most European wines, the name on the label is the region, not the grape. In Spain, Rioja means tempranillo. This grape is less fruit-driven and more about earthy, smokey, tobacco and leather-like aromas and flavors, with good tannins and a delightful food-friendliness. 

Grupo Bodegas Olarra has only been around since 1973, but they have managed to make a big splash in a fairly short time. They combine modern winemaking with traditional vinification and aging techniques. Although 100% tempranillo wines are becoming more common, Cerro Anon adds a touch of garnacha, mazuelo and graciano to the mix. This wine, which is created from some of the bodegas' older vines, has the earthy, leather components, buoyed by notes of blackberry and orange zest. Try pairing it with your holiday roast. You will not be disappointed.

Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas – The 3rd Nightcap

terra-noble-reserva-carmenere-63352-pNightcap #3: Terra Noble Reserva Carmenere 2011, Maule Valley, Chile $12

Carmenère has an interesting history. It was once a regular contributor to the blends of Bordeaux. It's susceptibility to mildew, however, made it the black sheep of the family, being passed up more and more by the Bordelais for the other authorized Bordeaux grapes (including carmenere's father, cabernet franc!). Fortunately for carmenère, it was able to thrive in drier climates and found a new home in Maule Valley, Chile, where plenty of sunshine and summer warmth has brought out the best in this variety. Ironcially, global warming has some Bordeaux grape growers experimenting with their little black sheep once again.

 The grape is dark-skinned, producing deep red wines with good structure, dark berry notes, hints of mocha, and herbaceous overtones. Some have likened the flavors of carmenère to those of Indian spices. After recently tasting a bottle of Terra Noble, I said to myself, "Why aren't I drinking more carmenère?" I have no doubt you will feel the same after tasting this wine, especially at this price point. 

Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas

pgpa11_1Nightcap #2:  Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Les Princes Abbés 2011, Alsace, France $18

Allô Alsace! When Americans think about French wine, Bordeaux comes to most minds. For others, it's Burgundy. And, of course, nothing could be more French than Champagne. It seems like the cool, northeasterly region nestled between the Vosges Mountains and Germany known as Alsace is oft overlooked. But Alsace has exceptional wines, especially if you're a lover of whites, and deserves its due attention. And although one need look no further than the quality of its wine to fall in love with Alsace, this region has endeared itself to me by being home to the very first biodynamic estate in France. It is still a hotbed of organic and biodynamic grape growing today. Domaines Schlumberger practices both organic and biodynamic viticulture, and they plough and work the vineyards with the estate's four horses.

One of my favorite grape varieties from this region is pinot gris. For all you lovers of pinot grigio out there, it is the same grape. What creates the difference in taste, for the most part,  is the soil and the climate. Alsatian pinot gris tends to have more powerful, riper aromatics, and a weightier mouthfeel. This beauty from Domaines Schlumberger is no exception. The warmth of the wine is foretold by its light golden hue (the winemaker compares it to buttercups), while the titillating aromatics announce the lively grapefruit and pear flavors within, and the hint of honey that adds to the slightly creamy mouthfeel. Although historically fermented to dryness, the wines of Alsace today often contain some residual sugar due to the changing climate. This wine has a hint of sweetness to it, which provides the perfect complement to foods with a slight kick to them, such as Thai or Szechuan Chinese. I personally enjoyed it with sushi and would not hesitate to serve it as an apéritif. And who doesn't love the elegance of the flute d'Alsace, the traditional long, tapered green bottle, a reminder of Alsace's Germanic history?

Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas

One of the questions I encounter the most as a wine educator is “What’s your favorite wine?” I confess, it’s a question I’ve come to dread because I always feel like I’m disappointing the inquisitor. My answer usually goes something like this: “I don’t really have a favorite. It depends on the day, the time of year, the company in which I find myself, and any gustatory delights with which I may be pairing the wine.”  If really pushed, I’ll tell them that I am a Champagne girl. This seems to provide them with a little more satisfaction. But the truth is my favorite wine changes on a monthly, weekly and even daily basis. And I am always waiting to find my next favorite wine. The beauty of the wine world is that there is always more to explore. So, here I will present a list of my 12 favorite wines right now for drinking and gifting during the holidays, one day at a time for the next 12 days.

A Votre Santé!

photo-141Nightcap 1: Domaine de Montbourgeau Crémant du Jura, Jura, France $25

Sparkling wine is appropriate any time of the year, but it's especially welcome during celebrations and holidays. Besides being festive, sparkling wines are made using grapes with high acidity. This acid, as well as the bubbles, helps these wines cut through a myriad of holiday foods, including those with higher salt and/or fat contents, making them excellent mates for varied holiday hors d'oeuvres. 

This delightful sparkling wine made with 100% chardonnay grapes from the L’Etoile region of Jura is made in the same method as Champagne. It shows citrus notes and lively acidity with a lingering touch of toastiness. And oh the bubbles! The icing on the yule log? Nicole Deriaux, granddaughter of the original winemaker and now full time vigneron, practices organic viticulture. L'Etoile means "the star" in French. Quite fitting for this star of a sparkler.