Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas – The 9th Nightcap

albet_cava_reserva_loNightcap #9: Albet i Noya Cava Brut, Penedes, Spain $16

The holidays just wouldn’t be the holidays without bubbles and there are more to choose from than ever before. While prosecco sales in the United States have gone up around 35% in the last 3 years, it is really cava I crave. Cava is the sparkling wine of Spain. It has traditionally been made from 3 indigenous grapes – xarel-lo, parellada and macabeu – but beginning in 1986, chardonnay, and then pinot noir and several other grapes have been authorized for use. Cava is made in the traditional method with a second fermentation in the bottle in which it will eventually be sold, as in Champagne, but is less strict than the French when it comes to aging requirements.

Albet i Noya is one of my favorite cava producers. The reasons why are too numerous to list here, but I will give you the highlights. This family winery was the first in Catalonia to embrace organic farming and winemaking, taking it one stop further in 2004 with biodynamic grape growing on part of the estate.; they disgorge their cava manually and print the disgorgement date on the back of every bottle; and they only use yeast indigenous to the Penedès region. Their cava is even vegan friendly! But mainly I love the way this cava tastes. It is made from the 3 indigenous grapes plus chardonnay, and was aged for 18 months. It is clean and mineralic, with just a splash of citrus, and then a hint of hazelnuts on the long finish. And what lovely bubbles.  ĺSalud!

Twelve Nightcaps Before Christmas

pgpa11_1Nightcap #2:  Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Les Princes Abbés 2011, Alsace, France $18

Allô Alsace! When Americans think about French wine, Bordeaux comes to most minds. For others, it's Burgundy. And, of course, nothing could be more French than Champagne. It seems like the cool, northeasterly region nestled between the Vosges Mountains and Germany known as Alsace is oft overlooked. But Alsace has exceptional wines, especially if you're a lover of whites, and deserves its due attention. And although one need look no further than the quality of its wine to fall in love with Alsace, this region has endeared itself to me by being home to the very first biodynamic estate in France. It is still a hotbed of organic and biodynamic grape growing today. Domaines Schlumberger practices both organic and biodynamic viticulture, and they plough and work the vineyards with the estate's four horses.

One of my favorite grape varieties from this region is pinot gris. For all you lovers of pinot grigio out there, it is the same grape. What creates the difference in taste, for the most part,  is the soil and the climate. Alsatian pinot gris tends to have more powerful, riper aromatics, and a weightier mouthfeel. This beauty from Domaines Schlumberger is no exception. The warmth of the wine is foretold by its light golden hue (the winemaker compares it to buttercups), while the titillating aromatics announce the lively grapefruit and pear flavors within, and the hint of honey that adds to the slightly creamy mouthfeel. Although historically fermented to dryness, the wines of Alsace today often contain some residual sugar due to the changing climate. This wine has a hint of sweetness to it, which provides the perfect complement to foods with a slight kick to them, such as Thai or Szechuan Chinese. I personally enjoyed it with sushi and would not hesitate to serve it as an apéritif. And who doesn't love the elegance of the flute d'Alsace, the traditional long, tapered green bottle, a reminder of Alsace's Germanic history?

The Crémant of the Crop

I recently had to face the horrifying self-realization that I am a hoarder. I am not sure of the exact moment I made this realization. That slight tinge of recognition when I saw a few minutes of a reality TV show on the subject? When I started having to ban houseguests from opening certain closets or even bedroom doors? I don’t know. But I buy things I think are wonderful and beautiful and then decide they are so wonderful and beautiful that I can’t possibly sully them with use. And so they sit, in packages, with labels still intact. If I ever mention wanting something in the presence of my mother, she tells me to go shopping in my closet first. She is sure I will find it there, whatever it is. She is usually right.

This hoarding instinct tends to permeate my wine buying habits as well. I find a wine I am incredibly excited about and carefully store it away because I can’t possibly bring myself to drink it and then be faced with the harsh reality that I no longer have it. For a while, I tried purchasing two bottles of every wine that excited me – one for now, one for later – but that got to be expensive. I decided just recently that it was time to start enjoying some of these beautiful and wonderful things before I was no longer around to do so. After all, things happen. And so, this is how on a recent Sunday evening I came to be drinking a delightful wine that had been chilling in my wine refrigerator for longer than I could remember. What had I been waiting for?

The wine was Jean-François Ganevat Crémant du Jura “La Combe” Rotalier, a sparkling wine from the fascinating wine region of Jura in eastern France. Jura, from which the term Jurassic comes, has topography similar to that found millions of years ago with the key soil types being limestone and marlstone. I was incredibly pleased with the wine. Its lovely pale amber hue with delicate bubble ballet immediately belied any notion that this was going to be just another Champagne wannabe. The nose was abundant with fruit. Pears and stone fruits such as peach and apricot flooded my taste buds and then were quickly enveloped by a pronounced biscuitiness that lingered for several glorious moments. It was during one of these moments that I recalled why I had purchased this particular bottle of wine. It was produced using biodynamic agriculture. Jean-François Ganevat converted his family’s estate in Rotalier to biodynamics in 2006 after returning from Burgundy where he spent time in the company of natural wine enthusiasts. Ganevat’s methods include minimal intervention with nature while growing his grapes as well as minimizing intervention in the winemaking process. For example, he limits his use of sulfur to a bare minimum. I have yet to try a biodynamic wine I do not like. This wine was no exception. And that was the most wonderful and beautiful thing of all. 

For Some, Every Day is Earth Day

 

This month, while contemplating what Earth Day means to different people, I was struck with the notion that, for biodynamic winemakers, every day is Earth Day. This belief was recently demonstrated when I had the pleasure of meeting Johan Reyneke, a biodynamic winemaker from South Africa. In fact, he claimed to be the only biodynamic winemaker in South Africa. I am an advocate of organic, biodynamic and sustainable winemaking and am thrilled when I find people committed to producing products farmed with these methods. What pleased me even more were the wines themselves. Fresh, clean, complex without being aggressive – they were the definition of terroir driven wines.

Johan Reyneke, owner of Reyneke Wines, took over farming activities from his mother in 1998 on their family farm, which faces the historic town of Stellenbosch in South Africa. Reyneke began his vineyard using conventional agricultural methods. He soon moved to organic methods, eventually converting completely to biodynamic farming and winemaking methods. It is his belief that biodynamic principles produce high quality wines that are truly terroir specific. Reyneke’s non-interventionist style of winemaking seems to be paying off. His wines have been warmly received, garnering approval from a wide range of critics including Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate.

Mr. Reyneke was pouring two of his wines on the day we met. The first was his 2010 Sauvignon Blanc. This wine had recently received a wine rating of 90 points from both Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate. I prefer my Sauvignon Blanc to be a bit more subtle than some of the rather aggressive wines coming out of New Zealand that are so popular now. This wine fit the bill perfectly. More mineralic than fruity, it still showed delightful notes of stone fruits, mostly peach, that were well balanced by the light-handed barrel treatment.

The second wine was Reyneke's 2010 Capstone Red, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. I confess, I am a big cabernet franc fan. Its rustic earthiness reminiscent of mushrooms, tobacco, and wet forest floor is pleasing to my palate. These traits were detectable in this chewy wine, along with notes of vanilla and espresso, figs and a touch of spice. Enjoyable to drink now, this wine will mellow nicely over the next couple of years.

Before taking my leave, Mr. Reyneke presented me with yet one more thing I found delightful – his calling card. Made by Mr. Reyneke with recycled paper, it is embedded with herb seeds. The writing on the card encourages the holder to plant it and grow herbs that can be enjoyed with Reyneke’s wines. I have been thinking of planting it for a month now but I enjoy seeing it and being reminded to pick up another bottle of his well-crafted wine. 

Greenwich Audubon Farm-to-Table Wine Dinner Menu

The Historic Ketay-Asnes Barn

The Greenwich Audubon Farm-to-Table Wine Dinner is quickly approaching and it promises to be an extraordinary evening with exquisite food from organic and biodynamic farms prepared by Chef Marc Alvarez. The highly acclaimed wines chosen by Renee Allen, Director of the Wine Institute of New England (WINE), to pair with the Chef’s delectable menu are all made by winemakers who practice either sustainable, organic or biodynamic farming. The evening will include wine education from WINE and an auction of small items to help benefit Audubon’s conservation and education initiatives. $120 per person. Advance tickets are required and very limited. To reserve a table for you and your guests, contact Jeff Cordulack at 203-869-5272 x239.

The evening’s menu with wine pairings:

Canapés

Crostini of Nettle Meadow Farm Kunik Cheese & Stanley Plum Compote
Seared Snow Hill Farm Beef Carpaccio, Horseradish & Crisp Russet Potato

Fall Vegetable Crudités, Rosa Bianca Eggplant Baba Ganoush

Warm Chickpea Fritters & AMBA Farms Tomato Chutney

paired with

Albet I Noya Cava NV, Spain

Dinner

Ryder Farm Roast Pumpkin Soup
Wilted Sage, Black Trumpet Mushrooms & Mini Pumpkins

paired with

Bonterra Viognier, California

**********

Snow Hill Farm Duo Of Lamb
Wild Hive Polenta & Spigarello (Wild Broccoli)

paired with

Bodegas Carrau Ysern Tannat, Uruguay

Or

Cayuga Pure Organics Farro Risotto
Cooperstown Creamery “Toma Celena” & Fall Vegetable Medley

paired with

Nuova Capelletta Barbera del Monferrato, Italy

or

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris, Alsace

***********

Warm Cortland Apple Tart & Blue Pig Vanilla Gelato

paired with

Domaine de Mihoudy, Bonnezeaux, Anjou-Saumur

This event was made possible through the generous support of:

FairfieldGreenFoodGuide.com, Concierge Foods, Wine Institute of New England, AOC Fine Wines, Mike’s Organic Delivery Service, The Metro North chapter of Slow Food USA

Farm-To-Table Dinner Party in the Historic Ketay-Asnes Barn

Wine Institute of New England will be providing wine education on sustainable, organic & biodynamic wines at a very special event to raise money for Audubon Greenwich.


A unique, local, food-centric event showcasing organic farms, seasonal meals, and sustainably managed vineyards. Guests will be treated to exquisite wines paired with farm-fresh goodness sourced from organic & biodynamic farms. The evening will include wine education from the Wine Institute of New England (WINE) and an auction of small items to help benefit Audubon’s conservation and education initiatives. $120 per person. Advance tickets are required and very limited. To reserve a table for you and your guests, contact Jeff Cordulack at 203-869-5272 x239.

The Sun, Moon & Stars…and a biodynamic cup of wine

I admit, I have been known to knock on wood to avoid tempting fate, and have even caught myself stepping over a crack in the sidewalk on occasion, but the last time I read my horoscope was in junior high school and it was for a lark. So how could I possibly buy into the philosophy behind biodynamic wines?

I first heard about biodynamics while studying for the Certified Specialist of Wine exam. It was afforded one paragraph right after organics and sustainability. I confess to snickering ever so slightly when I got to the sentence about phases of the moon and alignment of the planets. I was confident that, should a question arise regarding biodynamics, I would have no trouble remembering which theory it was and that I need not know any more about it.

Many weeks later, I happened to see a wine denoted as being biodynamic on a wine menu at my favorite oyster bar. It was a Sauvignon Blanc and I was in the mood for one, so I ordered it. I was very pleasantly surprised. The taste of mangos and melons married on my tongue and flowed through my mouth in perfect harmony, leaving nothing but an echo of their fresh, lively flavor for an aftertaste. I had a similarly pleasing experience with a biodynamic pinot grigio the next week. The floodgates opened. I attended a local “Taste of” and perused the wine tables. One table of Italian wines caught my attention. Upon tasting a couple of the wines there, I was inclined to sample the rest. After knocking back the final wine, I was receptive to hearing more about them. The national sales manager who had been pouring was all too happy to tell me about the biodynamic methods used in growing the grapes and making the wine. I did not hide my skepticism of what I termed these “quasi-religious” practices. He was nonplussed. I was impressed.

I wanted to know more. I knew the original movement was begun in 1924 when a group of farmers sought the help of Austrian philosopher and spiritual scientist, Rudoph Steiner. The farmers wanted to learn how to grow grapes without depleting the earth of its nutrients through the use of agrochemicals. But where did biodynamics stand now, 86 years later? My search brought me to a book on biodynamics by one of today’s leading advocates and an avid practitioner of the method, Nicolas Joly. Mr. Joly’s vineyard, Coulee de Serrant, is held in extremely high regard by wine experts. I was on the precipice of conversion

Knowing I had been on a biodynamic wine kick for weeks, a colleague contacted me with a request for a list of my favorites. He had a friend with a self-diagnosed allergy to the sulfites in wine and suggested he try biodynamic wine. This was turning into quite the miracle wine! I told my friend that, while the “spiritual science” techniques practiced in biodynamic agriculture did not in and of themselves render these wines any safer to drink for one with sulfite allergies, the fact that biodynamics demand organic vinification and vitification processes would indeed produce a lower sulfite wine. Although sulfites are a natural byproduct of the fermentation process and will be found in all wines to some degree, organic winemakers do not add any additional sulfur dioxide to the wine. SO2 is often added to prevent browning from oxidation and to prevent microbial spoilage.

So, was I ready to permanently suspend my disbelief and jump on the biodynamic bandwagon? No, that was not in the stars. But I now have a better understanding of the principles behind biodynamics, and a greater appreciation for the many benefits biodynamic agriculture has to offer. Not least among these benefits is the organic methods employed, which not only serve to maintain a healthier ecology, but have the added bonus of producing wines that are truer representations of their terroir. I am no longer snickering.