Blind Wine Tasting for 50+ In My Kitchen, Virtually Speaking

In the ultimate social media networking experience, a friend and I joined winetwits and over 50 twitter members in a virtual wine tasting last night. Giovanni Bonmartini-Fini, the producer of Barone Fini Pinot Grigio, was present at the Robert Smith Hotel in New York to conduct a blind wine tasting – Barone Fini versus an unknown Pinot Grigio. As the host guided the participants through the tasting, more than 50 wine experts and enthusiasts conducted their own tastings at home simultaneously with a live stream of the tasting at the hotel and tweeted their comments using the hashtag #tastechallenge. Giovanni began with a brief history of the now 150 year old Italy. He then spoke of terroir. He next led everyone through a blind tasting of the two wines. Armed with tasting mats and tasting note cards, virtual participants tweeted their thoughts throughout the presentation and the tastings – everything from chat about wine coasters to in depth critiques of the wines. After both wines had been tasted, participants were asked to vote for their favorite. Several minutes later, the brown paper bag clad bottles were unveiled and their contents revealed. But before I tell you what was inside, here is WINE’s tasting notes on the two wines:

Wine #1 – Light, straw yellow color with excellent clarity. The nose gave hints of lemons and apples. The flavor showed crisp acidity with notes of sour apples. Light, smooth, mineralic, acidic, well-balanced.

Wine#2 – This wine had a faint, chartreuse tinge to it. Although perfectly acceptable, the clarity was not as good as Wine #1. The nose was bigger on this wine, evidencing more fruit flavors. As was expected, the wine was bigger bodied, with more aggressive tastes of green apples. The fruit forward taste gave way to a slightly tart, almost bitter flavor, the fruit and bitterness lingering on the tongue for some time.

In Wine Institute of New England’s opinion, Wine #1 was a truer, more representative expression of Pinot Grigio. It was light, crisp, acidic, and thirst-quenching. This wine would pair well with lighter fare, including oysters and other shellfish. Wine #2 was fuller bodied, fruitier, also acidic although not quite as well-balanced. I believe many wine drinkers who enjoy a slightly bolder taste than the typical Pinot Grigio would be happy selecting this wine to pair with seafood seasoned with slightly bolder flavors.

It was WINE’s guess that Wine #2 was the Barone Fini Pinot Grigio. We were correct. Wine #1 was Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio. Both wines hale from Valdadige. Although both wines were perfectly quaffable, Wine #1 was a truer and better expression of what a Pinot Grigio should be. All tasting notes were made without regard to price. Of course, price does need to be taken into account and the price of his wine was something that Giovanni certainly felt was a key selling point. The Barone Fini runs about $12 per bottle, whereas the Santa Margherita will set you back closer to $24. When all is said and done, it’s nice to have choices.

We will report the results of the vote as soon as we have word.

Zweigelt? Zwei Not!

A recent issue of a food and wine magazine offered up several grapes to pinot noir lovers looking for more affordable alternatives. Among those proffered was Zweigelt, a red grape indigenous to Austria that is a cross of Blaufränkisch with Saint Laurent, created in 1922 by Dr. Friedrich Zweigelt. Although both Zweigelt and pinot noir grapes are red, for me, that is where the similarities end. That having been said, I highly recommend trying Zweigelt for a multitude of other reasons. Although it is often blended with cabernet sauvignon and merlot, I suggest tasting a bottle of the varietal in its pure form. You will be in for an affordable treat.

Last night I had the pleasure of tasting a 2008 Zantho Zweigelt at the hotel I am staying at in San Diego. Darker than pinot noir, the nose on the bright ruby red wine gave subtle hints of the fruit within; nothing too overwhelming. On the tongue, the wine started out smooth and fruity, with notes of red fruit, currants. I was expecting this to carry to a long, smooth finish. But the fruitiness gave way suddenly to a rather intense, spicy bite, slightly astringent, with a touch of tar. It was surprising, but extremely pleasant. Overall, it gave the sensation of beginning down a taciturn river, then unexpectedly hitting a waterfall. It was a wild ride and one I would take again.

Pairing Notes: I paired this wine with a palm and butter lettuce salad with quinoa and a lemony dressing, and pistachio-crusted salmon with wheatberries. Both dishes proved worthy companions to the wine. However, I would really like to pair this Zweigelt with slightly heftier dishes, including chicken and pork with some spicier seasoning, which I think would allow the wine to really shine.

Interesting Fact: The bottle and the Vino-Seal cork are decorated with a picture of the rare woodland lizard that lives in the village of Andau, originally named Zantho, in the county of Burgenland, from whence this wine hails.

Wine and Chocolate ~ it’s not just for dessert

A participant at one of my recent wine and dinner pairings was kind enough to send me some photographs from the event. The photos were so evocative of the experience that they made me feel excited about it all over again. So much so, that I decided to share the virtual experience.
In collaboration with the award-winning talents of Chef Daniel Chong Jimenez, the Wine Institute of New England brought together two of life’s greatest pleasures…chocolate and wine. Red, white and fortified wines were paired with delectable chocolate creations, including seared cocoa-dusted Stonington scallops, braised short ribs with chocolate espresso sauce, and an exquisite chicken mole. For the finale, our guests’ tastebuds were tantalized with a warm chocolate truffle seasoned with star anise and hazelnuts, adorned with candied orange peel and candied jalapeno peppers. Heavenly!

The wine pairings were as follows:

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The New York Wine Expo ~ or how much fun can one girl have?

If ever I wished for a day that had more hours in it than 24, yesterday would have been that day. I attended the International Restaurant and Foodservice Show of New York at the Javits Convention Center. I was excited to peruse the aisles of the Japan Pavilion section while sipping sake, and cruise the endless rows of cheese and baked goods. But the real reason I dragged myself out of bed at 6:15 on Sunday morning was just down the hall from the show – the New York Wine Expo. Upon learning that the Expo was showcasing over 640 wines from over 160 winemakers from all over the world, I steeled myself for some serious sipping. With so many wines and so few hours, though, where does one begin?

I started at the row of wineries from the Finger Lakes. I was curious to see how these wines would stack up against the Connecticut wines with which I have become familiar. The similar climates made for a credible comparison. I found several respectable Rieslings, a grape which fares well in the cool weather of New York. Among my favorites were Glenora Wine Cellars 2009 Dry Riesling and Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars 2009 Dry Riesling. Both tasted well-balanced, Dr. Frank’s showing a bit more minerals and slight effervescence, and Glenora showing a little more body than some of the other New York Rieslings sampled. Unoaked chardonnays were well represented. A 2006 Chardonnay from Shaw Vineyard was mineralic, dry, lightly fruited and altogether pleasant. Two stand out wines made from Cabernet Franc, my favorite red grape grown in Connecticut, were a 2007 from Fox Run Vineyards and a 2006 from Shaw Vineyard, which positively exploded with sour cherries and earthiness. But my favorite Cabernet Franc expression was the 2008 Cabernet Franc Ice Wine from Fulkerson Winery. It was silky, luscious, not cloyingly sweet – a surprising treat. Wagner Vineyards made a solid showing in the Ice Wine category with a 2008 Vidal Blanc Ice which began with a burst of pepper that quickly receded and was replaced with big fruit flavors.  I was delighted to try a grape variety with which I was not familiar, called Rkatsiteli. Native to Soviet Georgia and grown in Estonia and the Ukraine, among other places, Rkatsiteli is one of the oldest vinifera grape varieties known. The 2008 from Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars showed crisp acidity with nice fruit, a hint of spice, and a floral nose.

Satisfied that I had achieved a good sampling of wines from New York, I headed for Spain, home to many of my favorite wines. A table with a large “Organic” sign above it caught my attention first. Bodegas Parra Jimenez had many offerings, and all of them were in fact organic. I spotted a Verdejo resting in a tub of ice. Although my Spanish wine preference is for the most part for reds, I recently took a strong liking to Verdejo. Considered one of the best quality whites in Spain and usually associated with the Rueda DO, it is a crisp, floral wine with nice body that pairs spectacularly with oysters. This particular wine had a bouquet of tropical fruits and flowers that foretold the panoply of exotic tropical flavors that lay within. An absolute winner. Unfortunately, I was not as impressed with the representatives of Bodegas Parra Jimenez as I was with their wines. After tasting a Graciano, poured by the young woman behind the table, I commented on the rather decent amount of tannins I was getting from the wine. With a look that conveyed both complete disinterest and a modicum of disdain, she stated that Graciano was thin-skinned and therefore lacking in tannins. Really? Although they develop beautifully during aging, young Graciano wines are quite tannic, even tart. I suggest if a winemaker is looking for positive exposure in the hopes of winning over the American public, next time send someone who at least knows the wines she is pouring and, oh yes, someone who actually gives a damn.

Spain proved to have many other winners, but the two that stood out for me were wines made from the Bobal grape. Llanos del Marques 2009 was rich with berries and strong in tannins. Realce Bobal Reserva 2004 was positively huge and chock full of cherries. If you have never experienced Bobal, I highly recommend you do so.

I was excited to seek out other unusual or less common grapes. I headed for Brazil. There I found a wine from Dom Candido made from the Marselan grape. Marselan, a French grape that is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, arrived in the United States in 2007. The wine was smooth, velvety and rich with berries. In Brazil I also found several wines with Tannat in the blend, including a very good Touriga Nacional/Tannat blend from Lidio Carraro Elos. From the South West of France, and now the prominent grape in Uruguay, Tannat is beginning to be used more by other countries as a blending grape. Tannat grown in France is considered one of the four most tannic grapes in the world. Tannat grown elsewhere tends to be somewhat lower in tannins. The Brazilian blends were tannic, without being unpleasantly so.

The last stop on my wine travels was Greece, where I discovered four more grapes new to my palate, all native to Crete, and all in wine by Lyrarakis. The first, Vilana, although not offensive, was much too light for my taste. However, the second white grape I tried, Dafni, made my heart sing. It smelled and tasted remarkably like bay leaves, with a hint of eucalyptus, and citrus notes. It would pair perfectly with curry and other Indian food. I look forward to finding more examples of this varietal. A red variety, Kotsifali, was warm with red berries and had a very smooth finish. The final grape of the four was Mandilari. Unfortunately, I think I had reached my saturation point and was unable to give it an intelligible review. I will have to try this again another day.

It was at this point that I was treated to something quite special – a “cava” from Lyrarakis called “Symbolo.” Cava means best of the cellar and Symbolo indicated that the wine was symbolic of the wines of the cellar. This made more sense once I heard that there were no fewer than 17 different varietals in Symbolo. I was told that this wine could not be bought. It is a grand cuvee that is only made in certain years. The one sitting before me was a 2005. For the most part, this wine lived up to its rather extensive hype. It was nicely balanced with raspberry and cherry, moderate acids, moderate to somewhat high tannins, had a rustic, chewy texture in the mouth and was rounded out by leather and and a discrete presence of mushrooms on the finish.

Although I was unable to taste all 640 wines, I made a respectable dent in the lineup. It would be nice if the Wine Expo spanned the course of the 3-day food show, rather than being limited just to the first day. I would gladly set my alarm for 6:15 again to spend another day exploring the magnificent offerings there.

CT Specialty Food Association Wine Competition

The Wine Institute of New England had the special honor of judging the wine category at the Connecticut Specialty Food Association competition last week on February 17th. This year, the categories were expanded to include wine, beer and cheese. The perimeter of the Glass Room at the Aqua Turf in Plantsville was lined with cloth-clad tables adorned with small plates of cheese, lettuce, grains, and pasta sauces, among other things. Judging sheets on clipboards were being handed out at a round table toward the center of the room. I stood on line and mingled with my fellow judges. There was an interesting mix of people – chefs, food bloggers, culinary institute staff, restaurant owners, food writers, and even a celebrity or two, including “Hell’s Kitchen” contestant, Kevin Cottle, and NPR’s Chion Wolf.
A charming popping sound drew my attention to a long table by the door where the rather extensive array of wines to be judged was being set up. All categories had multiple entrants – blush, dessert, fruit, white, rosé and red – and all of the wines entered had to be produced from 100% Connecticut grown fruit. I certainly had my work cut out for me. Armed with clipboard and pen, I approached the table and contemplated the army of specimen-sized plastic cups. The wines were to be judged on four criteria: color, aroma, taste and overall presentation. The white table clothes and natural light from the large windows provided good conditions for assessing color. The little cups, however, made judging the wines’ aromas more challenging. There was definitely more time spent sniffing than tasting. Once I did embark on the tasting portion of my judging journey, I was delighted by the marvelous creations Connecticut wineries were producing. I recognized several of the entries from my own travels on the Connecticut Wine Trail, but there were many new and enticing tastes. And although red wine was the category I enjoyed the most and the one that was most susceptible to being compared to wines from outside of Connecticut, it was enlightening to sample some of the charming libations being created with other locally grown fruit, including strawberries, apples, pears and black currants. I noticed the wine judging continued well after the food entries had been tasted and picked over for lunch. Whether it was the sheer number of samples tasted, the gravity with which wine drinkers approach the job of tasting, or the inordinate amount of sniffing that was required, I am not sure. Perhaps one just likes to linger a bit longer over wine. Whatever the reason, it was time well spent. Kudos to the Connecticut Food Association on providing a vehicle for introducing and appreciating Connecticut grown and produced products. And I understand that arrangements have already been made for stemware to be provided for next year’s wine competition. My nose thanks you.

Results of the wine portion of the competition can be found at:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wine-Institute-of-New-England/141753879218706

Wine and Dinner Pairing with Chef Luis Rojas of Quattros, Guilford

Join Chef/Owner Luis Rojas of Quattros in Guilford as he demonstrates some of his most popular menu items. Chef Rojas’ cuisine is Northern Italian, with French and  Spanish influences. This evening’s menu will showcase Crabcakes with Savory Lemon Sherry Sauce, Veal Matesse (medallions of veal sauteed with shrimp in white wine sauce, then topped with spinach and mozzarella, pictured), and will end with an exciting presentation of Caribbean-style Tortilla-Wrapped Bananas in Grand Marnier Flambe sauce, served with vanilla ice cream. Each of Chef Rojas’ creations will be paired with a wine specifically selected to enhance its flavors by Certified Specialist of Wine, Renée B. Allen.

This event will be held at Delia, 4 Laser Lane, Wallingford, CT

$75 per person

For reservations, please call Cristina at 203-303-2000 ext. 376 or e-mail at cristina@deliainc.com

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Wine and Dinner Pairing with Chef John Brescio of Liv’s Oyster Bar, Old Saybrook

Chef/Owner John Brescio of Liv’s Oyster Bar in Old Saybrook invites you to join him in a celebration of spring as he demonstrates a seafood-centric menu with locally sourced ingredients. Chef Brescio’s menu will showcase his Sashimi Tuna Pizza, Spring Pea Soup with Butter Braised Lobster and Mint Creme Fraiche, and Pan Seared Stonington Scallops. The demonstration will include useful techniques for properly preparing risotto. Each course will be paired with a wine specifically selected to enhance its flavors by Certified Specialist of Wine, Renée B. Allen. And, of course, the evening will kick off with Oysters on the Half Shell!

This event will be held at Delia, 4 Laser Lane, Wallingford.

$75 per person

For reservations, please call Cristina at 203-3032000 ext. 376 or email at cristina@deliainc.com

Rising Star!

Amarone is finally a DOCG, Italy’s highest quality category. The promotion was finalized on March 24, 2010 and is effective with the 2010 harvest.

The Sun, Moon & Stars…and a biodynamic cup of wine

I admit, I have been known to knock on wood to avoid tempting fate, and have even caught myself stepping over a crack in the sidewalk on occasion, but the last time I read my horoscope was in junior high school and it was for a lark. So how could I possibly buy into the philosophy behind biodynamic wines?

I first heard about biodynamics while studying for the Certified Specialist of Wine exam. It was afforded one paragraph right after organics and sustainability. I confess to snickering ever so slightly when I got to the sentence about phases of the moon and alignment of the planets. I was confident that, should a question arise regarding biodynamics, I would have no trouble remembering which theory it was and that I need not know any more about it.

Many weeks later, I happened to see a wine denoted as being biodynamic on a wine menu at my favorite oyster bar. It was a Sauvignon Blanc and I was in the mood for one, so I ordered it. I was very pleasantly surprised. The taste of mangos and melons married on my tongue and flowed through my mouth in perfect harmony, leaving nothing but an echo of their fresh, lively flavor for an aftertaste. I had a similarly pleasing experience with a biodynamic pinot grigio the next week. The floodgates opened. I attended a local “Taste of” and perused the wine tables. One table of Italian wines caught my attention. Upon tasting a couple of the wines there, I was inclined to sample the rest. After knocking back the final wine, I was receptive to hearing more about them. The national sales manager who had been pouring was all too happy to tell me about the biodynamic methods used in growing the grapes and making the wine. I did not hide my skepticism of what I termed these “quasi-religious” practices. He was nonplussed. I was impressed.

I wanted to know more. I knew the original movement was begun in 1924 when a group of farmers sought the help of Austrian philosopher and spiritual scientist, Rudoph Steiner. The farmers wanted to learn how to grow grapes without depleting the earth of its nutrients through the use of agrochemicals. But where did biodynamics stand now, 86 years later? My search brought me to a book on biodynamics by one of today’s leading advocates and an avid practitioner of the method, Nicolas Joly. Mr. Joly’s vineyard, Coulee de Serrant, is held in extremely high regard by wine experts. I was on the precipice of conversion

Knowing I had been on a biodynamic wine kick for weeks, a colleague contacted me with a request for a list of my favorites. He had a friend with a self-diagnosed allergy to the sulfites in wine and suggested he try biodynamic wine. This was turning into quite the miracle wine! I told my friend that, while the “spiritual science” techniques practiced in biodynamic agriculture did not in and of themselves render these wines any safer to drink for one with sulfite allergies, the fact that biodynamics demand organic vinification and vitification processes would indeed produce a lower sulfite wine. Although sulfites are a natural byproduct of the fermentation process and will be found in all wines to some degree, organic winemakers do not add any additional sulfur dioxide to the wine. SO2 is often added to prevent browning from oxidation and to prevent microbial spoilage.

So, was I ready to permanently suspend my disbelief and jump on the biodynamic bandwagon? No, that was not in the stars. But I now have a better understanding of the principles behind biodynamics, and a greater appreciation for the many benefits biodynamic agriculture has to offer. Not least among these benefits is the organic methods employed, which not only serve to maintain a healthier ecology, but have the added bonus of producing wines that are truer representations of their terroir. I am no longer snickering.

the wine cup

The wine-cup is the little silver well,
Where truth, if truth there be, doth dwell.
… William Shakespeare, English poet and writer, (1564-1616)