Authentic Mexican Food and Wine ~ a Tijuana-style Summer Night

When people comment on how fun my job must be, I always say, “the research doesn’t stink.” This is never truer than when I get to combine terrific food with whatever wine I am tasting. Such was the case this week when I had the pleasure of tasting two Mexican wines while being treated to authentic Mexican cuisine at Suzette and Arturo Franco-Camacho’s newest food child, Tacuba Taco Bar. Tacuba is the name of a municipality in northwest Mexico City. With this latest restaurant, Chef Franco-Camacho honors his Mexican heritage and his mother’s taqueria in Tijuana where he grew up.

My friend and I arrived, with four kids in tow, after spending the day melting from the heat wave moving through Connecticut. We were tired but looking forward to a relaxing evening out in an air-conditioned restaurant. Upon opening the door to the unassuming entrance, we were struck with another heat wave; the air conditioning was out. Undaunted, I strolled in and gave the host my name. My companions followed reluctantly. It was not long into the meal before everyone agreed that we had made the right decision by staying, and that the heat added a touch more authenticity.

Although I am a tried and true foodie, I will save the majority of my prose for the wine and limit the food commentary to one simple sentence – everything was delicious and reasonably priced. The décor is pleasant and fun, a colorful montage of Mexican accented with contemporary touches, such as corrugated aluminum. A giant picture frame on the wall offers a canvas for silently run black and white Mexican movies, a great distraction for the hot and somewhat restless children. In the open kitchen, one can watch Chef Franco-Camacho creating culinary magic. If you really like to be part of the action, you can sit at the counter area directly in front of the kitchen. On the other side of a partitioning wall is the very adult bar, “Swill.” I had to run my hand over the wood bar and feel the natural undulations. A chandelier composed of wine glasses provided the very low mood lighting.

Back in the dining area, we were given menus with only two wines listed: Mexican sauvignon blanc and Mexican cabernet sauvignon. If you are not a wine drinker, there are mixed drinks, beers and 24, that’s right, 24, tequilas to choose from. But if you do like wine, I highly recommend you try one of the Mexican offerings.  They go well with the food. I am hoping to return soon, minus the children, to conduct further research at Swill.

L.A. Cetto Sauvignon Blanc 2009

The nose was slightly grassy with tropical fruit notes. Herbaceousness and stone fruits were evident in this mineralic, medium oaked, unassuming wine.

L.A. Cetto Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

The cab also had a mineralic and somewhat flinty taste, with dark red berries, cassis and a bit of earthiness. Medium bodied and smooth, this wine ended with a short finish.

Tacuba Taco Bar, 1205 Main Street, Branford, CT
203-208-0736
wwww.tacubataco.com

Drinking Local and the Birth of a New Word

I recently became involved in Connecticut’s Farm to Chef Program, a wonderful group whose mission is to connect local culinary professionals with producers and distributors of Connecticut grown products. My involvement began as a result of my work with a few Connecticut chefs committed to producing menus based on locally grown and produced food, and our mutual interest in promoting local wineries. The following is the story of my local journey. It was published in the May CT Farm-to-Chef Newsletter.

On Becoming A Locabibe

I first heard of the Connecticut Farm to Chef program when a mutual acquaintance email-introduced me (the new rage) to Linda Piotrowicz of the Connecticut Department of Agriculture. This acquaintance thought she might be a good connection for me as I navigated the murky waters of beginning my own wine education business in Connecticut. During my course of study for the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) examination, we had covered “other” regions, including the Northeast, but there was no mention of Connecticut wineries. A native New Yorker, I did not take the slight too personally, but it occupied a little space in the back of my mind. [Read more…]

When New and Old Worlds Collide

I had the pleasure of attending my first wine tasting event at Divine Wine Emporium in Niantic last Wednesday. The Emporium is a liquor store with a “learning center” in the back for wine events. The store is well laid out, warm, friendly and interesting. Little touches catch one’s eye, like the collection of antique wine bottle openers at one end of the store. The owner, Ken Turcotte, is knowledgeable and passionate. After perusing the shelves, I headed for the back room. The event was packed, every seat was filled and bodies lined the walls. Things were getting warm and the wine had yet to be poured. The main event? Marcus Notaro, head winemaker at Col Solare vineyard in Washington State. Mr. Notaro looks too young to be a head winemaker but, after listening to him speak, I’m convinced he’s up to the task.
Mr. Notaro spoke of the unique topography in Washington and how it affects viticulture. According to Mr. Notaro, Argentina is the only other region in the world that is topographically similar to Washington. It is this unique topography, he continued, that brought Piero Antinori to Washington in 1992, known for his lifelong curiosity about how grapes are grown around the world. Upon seeing the Washington wine region, led by the oldest and highly acclaimed winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Antinori formed a partnership with CSM for the purpose of producing fine, cabernet sauvignon based wine. Their search for the right terroir brought them to Red Mountain, the warmest of the Washington AVAs. The nutrient-sparse soil, warm days with cool nights, and low rainfall was ideal for producing wines that met Antinori’s requirements: 1) ageability; 2) good intensity of flavor; and 3) authenticity. And so, a vineyard marrying old and new world styles and philosophies was born. Col Solare is the child of that marriage. It is Italian for “shining hill.”
Mr. Notaro was informative, eloquent and engaging. But how did the wines fare?
1. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Pinot Gris – straw color with apple and pear on the nose. The flavor smacked of green apples. Acidic, thirst-quenching, not too much complexity, with a slightly tart finish.
2. Villa Antinori 2009 Villa Bianco Toscana IGT – made from trebbiano and malvasia, pinot bianco and pinot griogio, the color was pale straw yellow. I found the nose to be intensely herbaceous and floral which carried through to the taste. There was a slight woodiness to it.
3. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Syrah – light garnet with fair clarity, the nose jumped with smoked meats, spice and dark fruits. This cured meat aroma was present in the flavor, along with spice, followed by dark berries and molasses.
4. Villa Antinori 2007 Villa Antinori Rosso Toscana IGT – sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. Ruby red with good clarity, there was earth and tar on the nose. The flavor opened up with this earthiness, giving way to jaminess with currants and cherries. Nicely complex. One participant described this wine as “musical.”
5. Col Solare 2006 Shining Hill Red Blend – merlot, cabernet sauvignon and a touch of syrah. Dark ruby with a hint of smoke on the nose, the flavor was smokey and peppery with black fruit spice on the finish.
6. Col Solare 2006 Red Wine – predominantly cabernet sauvignon, with merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and syrah. Garnet hued, aromas of cigar box and dark berries rose from the glass. This full-bodied wine was well-balanced with black cherries, pencil shavings and chocolate notes leading up to a long silky finish.

Notes:

After noticing a heavy smoked or cured meat aroma and flavor in the Col Solare wines, I wanted to know more about the cooperage. Mr. Notaro explained that they use a combination of new and old oak, as well as a combination of American and French oak, and that all of the barrels are charred. I could attribute the toasty aromatics to the charring, almost like a bbq flavor or, the way Mr. Notaro described it, like a marshmallow that’s been toasted over an open fire just a little too long.

Special thanks to Ken Turcotte, owner of the Divine Wine Emporium, for putting together an enjoyable and informative tasting. I look forward to spending more time in the learning center.

And the Winner is…

The results are in and, although I would like to say I am shocked, I am not. Winetwits has just announced that, by a 2 to 1 margin, the 2009 Barone Fini Pinot Grigio was favored over the 2009 Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio in the Pinot Grigio Taste Challenge held on March 24. To read WINE’s tasting notes on the challenge, please see our blog from March 25. The event, tweets and twitpics can all be viewed at www.winetwits.tv.

Blind Wine Tasting for 50+ In My Kitchen, Virtually Speaking

In the ultimate social media networking experience, a friend and I joined winetwits and over 50 twitter members in a virtual wine tasting last night. Giovanni Bonmartini-Fini, the producer of Barone Fini Pinot Grigio, was present at the Robert Smith Hotel in New York to conduct a blind wine tasting – Barone Fini versus an unknown Pinot Grigio. As the host guided the participants through the tasting, more than 50 wine experts and enthusiasts conducted their own tastings at home simultaneously with a live stream of the tasting at the hotel and tweeted their comments using the hashtag #tastechallenge. Giovanni began with a brief history of the now 150 year old Italy. He then spoke of terroir. He next led everyone through a blind tasting of the two wines. Armed with tasting mats and tasting note cards, virtual participants tweeted their thoughts throughout the presentation and the tastings – everything from chat about wine coasters to in depth critiques of the wines. After both wines had been tasted, participants were asked to vote for their favorite. Several minutes later, the brown paper bag clad bottles were unveiled and their contents revealed. But before I tell you what was inside, here is WINE’s tasting notes on the two wines:

Wine #1 – Light, straw yellow color with excellent clarity. The nose gave hints of lemons and apples. The flavor showed crisp acidity with notes of sour apples. Light, smooth, mineralic, acidic, well-balanced.

Wine#2 – This wine had a faint, chartreuse tinge to it. Although perfectly acceptable, the clarity was not as good as Wine #1. The nose was bigger on this wine, evidencing more fruit flavors. As was expected, the wine was bigger bodied, with more aggressive tastes of green apples. The fruit forward taste gave way to a slightly tart, almost bitter flavor, the fruit and bitterness lingering on the tongue for some time.

In Wine Institute of New England’s opinion, Wine #1 was a truer, more representative expression of Pinot Grigio. It was light, crisp, acidic, and thirst-quenching. This wine would pair well with lighter fare, including oysters and other shellfish. Wine #2 was fuller bodied, fruitier, also acidic although not quite as well-balanced. I believe many wine drinkers who enjoy a slightly bolder taste than the typical Pinot Grigio would be happy selecting this wine to pair with seafood seasoned with slightly bolder flavors.

It was WINE’s guess that Wine #2 was the Barone Fini Pinot Grigio. We were correct. Wine #1 was Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio. Both wines hale from Valdadige. Although both wines were perfectly quaffable, Wine #1 was a truer and better expression of what a Pinot Grigio should be. All tasting notes were made without regard to price. Of course, price does need to be taken into account and the price of his wine was something that Giovanni certainly felt was a key selling point. The Barone Fini runs about $12 per bottle, whereas the Santa Margherita will set you back closer to $24. When all is said and done, it’s nice to have choices.

We will report the results of the vote as soon as we have word.

Zweigelt? Zwei Not!

A recent issue of a food and wine magazine offered up several grapes to pinot noir lovers looking for more affordable alternatives. Among those proffered was Zweigelt, a red grape indigenous to Austria that is a cross of Blaufränkisch with Saint Laurent, created in 1922 by Dr. Friedrich Zweigelt. Although both Zweigelt and pinot noir grapes are red, for me, that is where the similarities end. That having been said, I highly recommend trying Zweigelt for a multitude of other reasons. Although it is often blended with cabernet sauvignon and merlot, I suggest tasting a bottle of the varietal in its pure form. You will be in for an affordable treat.

Last night I had the pleasure of tasting a 2008 Zantho Zweigelt at the hotel I am staying at in San Diego. Darker than pinot noir, the nose on the bright ruby red wine gave subtle hints of the fruit within; nothing too overwhelming. On the tongue, the wine started out smooth and fruity, with notes of red fruit, currants. I was expecting this to carry to a long, smooth finish. But the fruitiness gave way suddenly to a rather intense, spicy bite, slightly astringent, with a touch of tar. It was surprising, but extremely pleasant. Overall, it gave the sensation of beginning down a taciturn river, then unexpectedly hitting a waterfall. It was a wild ride and one I would take again.

Pairing Notes: I paired this wine with a palm and butter lettuce salad with quinoa and a lemony dressing, and pistachio-crusted salmon with wheatberries. Both dishes proved worthy companions to the wine. However, I would really like to pair this Zweigelt with slightly heftier dishes, including chicken and pork with some spicier seasoning, which I think would allow the wine to really shine.

Interesting Fact: The bottle and the Vino-Seal cork are decorated with a picture of the rare woodland lizard that lives in the village of Andau, originally named Zantho, in the county of Burgenland, from whence this wine hails.

Wine and Chocolate ~ it’s not just for dessert

A participant at one of my recent wine and dinner pairings was kind enough to send me some photographs from the event. The photos were so evocative of the experience that they made me feel excited about it all over again. So much so, that I decided to share the virtual experience.
In collaboration with the award-winning talents of Chef Daniel Chong Jimenez, the Wine Institute of New England brought together two of life’s greatest pleasures…chocolate and wine. Red, white and fortified wines were paired with delectable chocolate creations, including seared cocoa-dusted Stonington scallops, braised short ribs with chocolate espresso sauce, and an exquisite chicken mole. For the finale, our guests’ tastebuds were tantalized with a warm chocolate truffle seasoned with star anise and hazelnuts, adorned with candied orange peel and candied jalapeno peppers. Heavenly!

The wine pairings were as follows:

[Read more…]

The New York Wine Expo ~ or how much fun can one girl have?

If ever I wished for a day that had more hours in it than 24, yesterday would have been that day. I attended the International Restaurant and Foodservice Show of New York at the Javits Convention Center. I was excited to peruse the aisles of the Japan Pavilion section while sipping sake, and cruise the endless rows of cheese and baked goods. But the real reason I dragged myself out of bed at 6:15 on Sunday morning was just down the hall from the show – the New York Wine Expo. Upon learning that the Expo was showcasing over 640 wines from over 160 winemakers from all over the world, I steeled myself for some serious sipping. With so many wines and so few hours, though, where does one begin?

I started at the row of wineries from the Finger Lakes. I was curious to see how these wines would stack up against the Connecticut wines with which I have become familiar. The similar climates made for a credible comparison. I found several respectable Rieslings, a grape which fares well in the cool weather of New York. Among my favorites were Glenora Wine Cellars 2009 Dry Riesling and Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars 2009 Dry Riesling. Both tasted well-balanced, Dr. Frank’s showing a bit more minerals and slight effervescence, and Glenora showing a little more body than some of the other New York Rieslings sampled. Unoaked chardonnays were well represented. A 2006 Chardonnay from Shaw Vineyard was mineralic, dry, lightly fruited and altogether pleasant. Two stand out wines made from Cabernet Franc, my favorite red grape grown in Connecticut, were a 2007 from Fox Run Vineyards and a 2006 from Shaw Vineyard, which positively exploded with sour cherries and earthiness. But my favorite Cabernet Franc expression was the 2008 Cabernet Franc Ice Wine from Fulkerson Winery. It was silky, luscious, not cloyingly sweet – a surprising treat. Wagner Vineyards made a solid showing in the Ice Wine category with a 2008 Vidal Blanc Ice which began with a burst of pepper that quickly receded and was replaced with big fruit flavors.  I was delighted to try a grape variety with which I was not familiar, called Rkatsiteli. Native to Soviet Georgia and grown in Estonia and the Ukraine, among other places, Rkatsiteli is one of the oldest vinifera grape varieties known. The 2008 from Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars showed crisp acidity with nice fruit, a hint of spice, and a floral nose.

Satisfied that I had achieved a good sampling of wines from New York, I headed for Spain, home to many of my favorite wines. A table with a large “Organic” sign above it caught my attention first. Bodegas Parra Jimenez had many offerings, and all of them were in fact organic. I spotted a Verdejo resting in a tub of ice. Although my Spanish wine preference is for the most part for reds, I recently took a strong liking to Verdejo. Considered one of the best quality whites in Spain and usually associated with the Rueda DO, it is a crisp, floral wine with nice body that pairs spectacularly with oysters. This particular wine had a bouquet of tropical fruits and flowers that foretold the panoply of exotic tropical flavors that lay within. An absolute winner. Unfortunately, I was not as impressed with the representatives of Bodegas Parra Jimenez as I was with their wines. After tasting a Graciano, poured by the young woman behind the table, I commented on the rather decent amount of tannins I was getting from the wine. With a look that conveyed both complete disinterest and a modicum of disdain, she stated that Graciano was thin-skinned and therefore lacking in tannins. Really? Although they develop beautifully during aging, young Graciano wines are quite tannic, even tart. I suggest if a winemaker is looking for positive exposure in the hopes of winning over the American public, next time send someone who at least knows the wines she is pouring and, oh yes, someone who actually gives a damn.

Spain proved to have many other winners, but the two that stood out for me were wines made from the Bobal grape. Llanos del Marques 2009 was rich with berries and strong in tannins. Realce Bobal Reserva 2004 was positively huge and chock full of cherries. If you have never experienced Bobal, I highly recommend you do so.

I was excited to seek out other unusual or less common grapes. I headed for Brazil. There I found a wine from Dom Candido made from the Marselan grape. Marselan, a French grape that is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, arrived in the United States in 2007. The wine was smooth, velvety and rich with berries. In Brazil I also found several wines with Tannat in the blend, including a very good Touriga Nacional/Tannat blend from Lidio Carraro Elos. From the South West of France, and now the prominent grape in Uruguay, Tannat is beginning to be used more by other countries as a blending grape. Tannat grown in France is considered one of the four most tannic grapes in the world. Tannat grown elsewhere tends to be somewhat lower in tannins. The Brazilian blends were tannic, without being unpleasantly so.

The last stop on my wine travels was Greece, where I discovered four more grapes new to my palate, all native to Crete, and all in wine by Lyrarakis. The first, Vilana, although not offensive, was much too light for my taste. However, the second white grape I tried, Dafni, made my heart sing. It smelled and tasted remarkably like bay leaves, with a hint of eucalyptus, and citrus notes. It would pair perfectly with curry and other Indian food. I look forward to finding more examples of this varietal. A red variety, Kotsifali, was warm with red berries and had a very smooth finish. The final grape of the four was Mandilari. Unfortunately, I think I had reached my saturation point and was unable to give it an intelligible review. I will have to try this again another day.

It was at this point that I was treated to something quite special – a “cava” from Lyrarakis called “Symbolo.” Cava means best of the cellar and Symbolo indicated that the wine was symbolic of the wines of the cellar. This made more sense once I heard that there were no fewer than 17 different varietals in Symbolo. I was told that this wine could not be bought. It is a grand cuvee that is only made in certain years. The one sitting before me was a 2005. For the most part, this wine lived up to its rather extensive hype. It was nicely balanced with raspberry and cherry, moderate acids, moderate to somewhat high tannins, had a rustic, chewy texture in the mouth and was rounded out by leather and and a discrete presence of mushrooms on the finish.

Although I was unable to taste all 640 wines, I made a respectable dent in the lineup. It would be nice if the Wine Expo spanned the course of the 3-day food show, rather than being limited just to the first day. I would gladly set my alarm for 6:15 again to spend another day exploring the magnificent offerings there.